![]() ![]() The resulting poster is saved as a multipage PDF document. A few months ago I started on a paper pieced pattern and was plugging along nicely until I realized that I had totally messed up a a color or two in several pieces.The PosteRazor cuts a raster image into pieces which can afterwards be printed out and assembled to a poster.Īs input, the PosteRazor takes a raster image. I was bummed out and just set the project aside and got to working on a few other things. Posterazor for Linux - Create your own poster. I have to say that I have a few paper pieced projects that are not finished yet. I really need to get on these so I can move on to something else!!Īnyhoooo. ![]() I decided that the designer's original size of 18x24 was just too small so I used a handy, dandy free - yes, free! - program called PosteRazor - to resize the pattern pieces and print them out. I then started to cut out the whole pieces and then I was going to work on putting together the ones that needed to be taped together. Let me just say that I don't know what I was thinking and since then have seen the error of my ways and am doing it right. You tape together the full pages first THEN cut them apart. What was I thinking? So needless to say I will be printing out some more pages so I can actually save myself a bit of frustration. Here is a quick help for others if they are resizing paper piecing patterns.įirst. PosteRazor cuts raster images into multipage PDF documents so that they can be printed and glued together to make a poster. Posterazor tutorial pdf#ĭon't spend money on Kinkos or Staples or wherever you would normally resize your stuff. The software used the FLTK based user interface, but the latest development has seen a move to Qt, a popular widget toolkit. If you have a printer and some tape, you have all that you need - well, that and PosteRazor of course. ![]() I used 125% for my resizing and I have 1/2" of overlap.FUN TIP: When transferring an image from computer to your stencil material, you can use a laser printer (not inkjet,) and some acetone. Laser printers use toner rather than ink. Acetone dissolves toner, allowing it to be transferred to another surface.Īcetone, preferably 100%, but nail polish remover will do in a pinchĬotton balls, a paintbrush, a rag, or paper towels - for applying acetone Toner is a fine powder made from carbon and a wax or plastic, which melts at a low temperature, fusing to other materials. Stencil board - I like thin, single-sided plastic signs, but poster board or Bristol board works.Ī large stainless steel spoon for rubbing. Laser print your design onto white paper. Remember to reverse the image if you need to spray your stencil from the front. (Alignment of each layer with your final printed image.) Often it doesn't matter stencils can usually be flipped over, but keep this in mind, particularly with multi-layer stencils where you must consider registration. If transferring to fabric, paper, or thin cardstock, put a sheet of board or plastic under your work to protect against acetone soaking through. You shouldn't be using that much solvent, but your mom will fucking kill you if you dissolve her kitchen counter. Put your stencil material on a hard, flat, surface, and lay your printed image on top with the image facing down. Select paper and sizing by clicking on the drop down tab. It's best if you tape the image in place so it can't move relative to your stencil. Consider the wall you’ll be hanging the art on and play around with the Output size until it’s a good fit for your wall. There is a super handy silhouette that shows up next to your preview as you scale the number of sheets up and down to give you a better idea of how large your. If it moves, you'll get a shitty transfer and your mom will stab you in the eye. Wet a cotton ball, paintbrush, or rag with acetone, and dab the acetone onto the back of your image. You'll immediately see your image become visible through the wet page. When parts of your image start looking less black, the acetone is evaporating. If you allow the acetone to dry completely. Using the back of a large spoon, or similar hard, rounded implement, rub your image to push the dissolved toner onto the stencil board. You don't have to go nuts, just rub the whole design with moderate pressure. If areas of your image start fading before you've rubbed 'em down, dab on a bit more acetone and quit fucking around. If you've let the acetone dry too much, it may be a lot stuck. You should have a pretty decent transferred image on your stencil to work from. If you don't, make sure your mom doesn't find out, or you'll be wasting half of your binoculars from now on. If doing multi-layer stencils, remember to print registration marks on every layer-transfer them too-and be careful to lay your image down in the same position on each stencil. If you have any questions, feel free to ask Google because I am a grumpy bastard and I don't care about your stupid problems.
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